Category: How To Guides

How to gardening guides, packed with advice from David Domoney. David is a Chartered Horticulturalist with over 40 years of experience growing and caring for plants. David has also worked on UK national television for over 2 decades. As a garden designer, David has won over 30 RHS medals for his garden designs at leading UK gardening shows and events.

How to plant a tree in 3 easy steps: The no-nonsense guide

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There is an old saying: The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second-best time is now.

Planting a tree is symbolic, a statement of permanence and longevity. It can even be a legacy to leave behind. And if you have little ones, plant a tree now and watch them grow together.

Perhaps that is sentimental. But there are other, more practical reasons to plant a tree. Trees are great for the environment, taking in pollutants and carbon dioxide and giving out oxygen. Their roots support soil structure and take up plenty of rainwater.

And trees are fantastic for garden design. They give height and act as an anchor in the planting scheme. The canopy provides shade, privacy and leafy green colour, plus autumn interest as the leaves change colour. Plus trees are great habitats for wildlife and birds.

So here are my top gardening tips on how to plant a tree in your garden.

Choosing the tree

Acer (Japanese maple)

Before you buy your tree, it makes sense to do some research. The most important factor is space. There is no point planting a small young tree if, in five years’ time, it dwarfs and smothers everything in the garden.

Look for the eventual or fully grown size and check that fits with your garden and space. Also bear in mind that large trees have very large root systems, which are no good if you have poor, shallow soil.

You also need to check soil and sunlight levels. Most soil types should be fine, and a sheltered but sunny spot is usually best.

I would also advise choosing something that looks great for long periods of time, especially if you have a small garden. Magnolias look beautiful in spring but boring the rest of the year. Look for spring blossom, vivid autumn colour or winter berries and pretty bark.

You can also grow a fruit tree – apple trees have blossom in spring, leaves all summer and masses of fresh fruit in the autumn. Perfect!

How to plant a tree

Step 1 Prepare the ground

Choose a dry day when the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Bare-root trees should be planted during dormant season from late autumn to early spring – get more bare root advice here. Container-grown trees can be planted all year round. Water the tree well on the day of planting.

Dig a hole as deep as the rootball and two to three times as wide. If you garden on heavy or clay soil, dig a square hole rather than a round one to help roots spread more easily as they grow.

Contrary to common advice, you should not add fertiliser or organic material to the planting hole. There is no evidence to suggest that they boost the tree, and they may even hinder new root growth. Extra nutrients are better applied as a mulch after planting.

However if you garden on poor soil, add a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi (often sold as Rootgrow) which is known to boost root growth.

Step 2 Plant the tree

Planting a tree

Remove the tree from its pot or wrapping and place it in the hole. Spread the roots out and settle the tree so that the first flare (top layer) of roots sit level with the soil surface.

This is important because planting a tree too deeply prevents air from getting to the roots and may rot the stem, damaging or even killing the tree.

For container-grown trees, you may need to scrape the soil off the top of the rootball to find the first flare. Lay a garden cane across the hole to find ground level and settle the tree, adding or removing soil so it sits at the right depth.

Carefully backfill the hole with soil in layers, firming in gently until the soil is level. Avoid pressing down too hard and compacting the soil – it should not feel solid.

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Step 3 Stake and water

Staking a tree

Any stem or trunk that is thicker than your thumb will need staking. A newly planted tree does not have a deep enough root system to protect it from being pulled out by strong winds.

You should push a stout wooden stake into the soil just outside of the rootball, leaning backwards at a 45 degree angle to meet the trunk. Make sure the stake is deep and firmly fixed in the soil – use a wooden mallet to drive it in.

Then gently tie the tree to the stake using soft tree ties. Make sure the ties do not cut into the stem as it grows – keep loosening them.

Water the tree

Water in the tree really well. One of the most common problems with newly planted trees is drought. Water every few days during dry spells for the first growing season.

You should also water deeply rather than little and often. This pushes the water deeper in the soil, encouraging the tree to grow deep roots and making it more drought-resistant.

Warm, dry and windy weather is the worst for drying out trees. So watch out for drying and water the tree as much as possible. Current guidelines suggest you need to pour on four to six watering cans’ worth per square metre every week on normal soil.

For heavy or poor-draining soil, you may not need to water as much in case you cause waterlogging. The symptoms for drought and waterlogging are often the same, so if you’re not sure, dig next to the rootball with a trowel to check the soil is draining.

Aftercare

Weeping williow

Aside from watering, it is important to keep the soil around the tree clear of weeds. They grow roots near the surface, taking up vital water before it gets to the tree.

You can put down a layer of mulch (compost, well-rotted manure or rotted bark chips). This helps retain moisture and smother weeds. Just make sure to leave a 10cm ring around the stem clear, to avoid rotting the wood.

If rabbits or deer are a problem in your area, buy tree guards and spirals to protect the bark.

Don’t feed the tree during the first season, but you can use general fertiliser to give it a boost during the second year. However, this should not be done if you have applied mycorrhizal fungi, as the phosphorous levels inhibit fungal growth.

Check the tree ties every spring and autumn and loosen as needed. After two growing seasons the stake can be removed.

Plus here is a guide to planting roses!

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For more garden planting ideas, check out my blog:

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Or check out my Pinterest board for more ideas:

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July 26, 2019
How to save time on garden upkeep: Gardening the easy way

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A garden is one of life’s greatest pleasures. To have your own green oasis away from the world is to have an escape, a place to unwind and relax.

But a garden can mean a lot of work in the form of garden maintenance. And with most of us short of time, it can soon become overwhelming. Left to their own devices, plants grow too big and get out of control.

Take the stress out

Then it feels like you are running just to stand still. Every hour in the garden is used up trying to tame, rather than enjoy. Gardening becomes a stressful stream of never-ending chores.

So why not make your garden easier to manage? You can save time on garden upkeep by taking steps towards a more low-maintenance garden.

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Be honest with yourself

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We all have grand dreams for our gardens. But there is no point trying to build something that is impossible to maintain. It will only look good for the first few weeks, and then it will become unruly and unkempt.

Be honest about how much time you have and aim to build a garden that suits your lifestyle.

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Start by taking a look at your garden as it is and making notes of all the areas and big time drains. Good examples are a large lawn or hedging that needs constant clipping.

Identify parts of the garden that you could change to make them easier to manage, and even elements you could remove completely.

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Go wild

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Mowing the lawn is one of the most widely hated garden chores. But the truth is that you can just stop. Letting your lawn grow longer between mowings will really save you time.

You can even let it grow out into a meadow. Simply mow a path through the middle and let the sides grow long. Plant some wildflowers too if you want to add colour.

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Lawn Care

Edging the lawn is also a time-consuming process. Add mowing strips around the edge so you can mow right over it. A row of bricks is a low-maintenance choice, or you can create an invisible edge by sinking plastic edging strips into the soil.

For patchy lawns that need lots of repairs, feed with an autumn lawn fertiliser at the end of summer. This promotes strong root growth, making the grass hardier and more drought-tolerant.

If you have a small or shaded garden, you can always strip out the grass and replace with a no-mow alternative like chamomile and creeping thyme. These have a soft green colour and almost no maintenance.

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War on weeds

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Weeding is time-consuming garden upkeep. Weeds are naturally invasive plants and soon get out of hand if left alone to spread. Save time weeding throughout the year by catching them early in spring, before they set seed.

Remove perennial weeds with a systemic contact weedkiller. This is weedkiller that you apply directly to leaves, ensuring you only kill the unwanted plant. It travels down to the roots and kills those too.

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Apply residual weedkiller on uncultivated areas like paths and drives – these remain in the soil and stop weeds sprouting, sometimes for a whole season.

Most weeds will pop up in bare soil, so don’t leave any showing. Put in ground cover plants or apply a thick layer of mulch or gravel over the top.

You can also lay weed-suppressing fabric over the soil of new borders. Cut x-shapes into the fabric to make planting holes.

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Mulch all surfaces

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Mulch is a layer of material that is placed over the soil surface. It can be solid like gravel or organic like compost and bark chippings.

Mulches have many benefits. They smother the soil, preventing weeds from germinating. They also help soil retain moisture by lessening water evaporation. And organic mulches can also improve soil nutrient levels and structure.

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A thick layer of mulch is best – aim for 5cm (2in). Apply around beds and borders to cover bare soil. Don’t let organic mulches touch the stems of plants or they may rot.

You can also apply a layer of gravel to the top of pots and containers to save on watering.

Freshly cut bark chippings should not be used as a mulch. This is because they use large amounts of nitrogen as they rot, depleting the soil. Only use fresh chippings on paths and unplanted areas and opt for composted bark chippings on borders.

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Save time watering

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Spending every Saturday lugging heavy watering cans up and down the garden is no fun. The biggest culprits are containers and hanging baskets, which need watering every day in hot weather. Cut down the number of pots you have and move them into a cooler, more shaded spot in summer.

Trade secret

Add watering crystals and slices to pots when planting. These absorb some water in the soil, releasing it when the soil starts to dry out. You can also place pots together in a tray filled with a couple of inches of water and simply top up the tray, rather than individual pots.

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If you do want to grow plants in containers, choose the largest pots possible. They can hold more soil and water, making them lower maintenance.

To really save time watering, link pots up to an automatic watering system on a timer. You can also run a seep hose through beds and borders – this is ideal for the veg plot. These systems work most efficiently on a night, as the heat of the day causes much of the water to evaporate before reaching the plant.

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Hedge your bets

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Neatly clipped hedges may look smart but they need constant maintenance. Fast-growing varieties like Leylandii and Photinia soon get out of control and start casting deep shade over the garden.

The easiest solution to high-maintenance hedging is to replace it with slow-growing varieties like yew and hornbeam.

You can also reduce the pruning of hedges to allow them to grow shaggy. Or cut them back hard – prune deciduous hedges in winter and evergreen varieties in spring.

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Grow hardy and easy

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For the most low-maintenance garden, choose plants that suit soil, sunlight levels and weather conditions. If you have a chalky, windy coastal garden there is no point growing tender and floppy plants. Likewise, a shaded garden with clay soil will need plants that cope with cold, wet conditions.

You should also make good use of evergreens, which add shape and colour all year round. Shade-tolerant varieties like holly and ivy give good colour to dark corners and north-facing walls. Acers are also great trees for shaded spots and they grow very slowly.

Make your garden drought-tolerant with Mediterranean plants like sedum, geranium and rosemary. Grasses are also great easy-care plants. Look for long-flowering perennials that continue throughout summer.

Frosty and exposed gardens need hardy varieties and woody shrubs like heather and hydrangea. Shrubs generally require even less attention than perennials.

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Get rid of needy plants

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We all dream of impractical and tropical plants. But the truth is that they won’t grow well in our gardens. Even a dedicated gardener with endless hours to spend would struggle to make plants thrive in conditions they hate.

Time spent coaxing tender, needy plants into flower is frustrating and often wasted. Be realistic with your plant choices and get rid of varieties that don’t like your site or soil.

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If you have dry soil, remove surface-rooting annuals and replace with drought tolerant geraniums and meadow flowers.

You can also get rid of delicate plants that need staking, like delphiniums. Add alliums and climbers up wigwams instead.

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Then you can get back to enjoying the garden, rather than controlling it.

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Want to learn more about spring pollinators? Find out more below:

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Or check out my Pinterest board for more ideas:

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July 26, 2019
How to plant palm trees in the garden

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If you’ve been somewhere hot and want a reminder of your holiday, try out a palm tree for size. The Chusan palm (Trachycarpus fortunei) is a lovely thick, hairy-trunked palm with beautiful fan-shaped green leaves. It will tolerate British winters, though if you live in a particularly exposed area you might like to give it some protection.

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Top trunks

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Another favourite is the Torquay palm (Cordyline australis). This has a great long trunk and at the top of it are fine fronds of foliage. Both these palms will survive and thrive in the UK providing we don’t get extremely cold temperatures over the winter. Introducing a palm into the garden adds beautiful architectural shapes. And it couldn’t be easier because they are relatively straightforward to plant. Cordylines are easier to grow than trachycarpus so they tend to be cheaper to buy. You can expect a variety of colours to add to the textures – cordyline comes in gold and purple.

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Place in the sun

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They favour soil that is well-drained with added organic matter – and as much sun or dappled shade as you have in your garden. Remember, both of these palms have the potential to grow into tall trees so don’t plant them where they will overshadow the rest of your garden or a greenhouse – or a neighbour. A bit of space will allow you to really appreciate their full majesty. They couldn’t be more different to our British native species. Their trunks become almost cork-like over time and they will add real personality to your garden, front or back.

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Fronds in the north

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There is something about lying down on a deckchair or lounger and looking through the fronds of a palm at blue sky above. You could be anywhere in the world. You might be living in a suburb in Sidcup or Sunderland but with a beautiful palm tree you could just as easily be in the Mediterranean.

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For more garden planting ideas, check out my blog:

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Or check out my Pinterest board for more ideas:

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last=”false” border_position=”all” border_sizes_top=”0″ border_sizes_bottom=”0″ border_sizes_left=”0″ border_sizes_right=”0″ first=”false” spacing_right=””][fusion_imageframe image_id=”54077|large” max_width=”” sticky_max_width=”” style_type=”none” blur=”” stylecolor=”” hover_type=”none” bordersize=”” bordercolor=”” borderradius=”” align_medium=”none” align_small=”none” align=”none” margin_top=”” margin_right=”” margin_bottom=”” margin_left=”” lightbox=”no” gallery_id=”” lightbox_image=”” lightbox_image_id=”” alt=”” link=”” linktarget=”_self” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” sticky_display=”normal,sticky” class=”” id=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” filter_hue=”0″ filter_saturation=”100″ filter_brightness=”100″ filter_contrast=”100″ filter_invert=”0″ filter_sepia=”0″ filter_opacity=”100″ filter_blur=”0″ filter_hue_hover=”0″ filter_saturation_hover=”100″ filter_brightness_hover=”100″ filter_contrast_hover=”100″ filter_invert_hover=”0″ filter_sepia_hover=”0″ filter_opacity_hover=”100″ filter_blur_hover=”0″]https://new.daviddomoney.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/How-to-grow-foxgloves-feature-500×750.jpg[/fusion_imageframe][fusion_separator style_type=”none” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” sep_color=”” top_margin=”30px” bottom_margin=”” border_size=”” icon=”” icon_circle=”” icon_circle_color=”” width=”” alignment=”center” /][fusion_button link=”https://new.daviddomoney.com/a-guide-to-growing-foxgloves-in-your-garden/” text_transform=”” title=”” target=”_self” link_attributes=”” alignment_medium=”” alignment_small=”” alignment=”center” modal=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” sticky_display=”normal,sticky” class=”” id=”” color=”custom” button_gradient_top_color=”rgba(1,149,51,0)” button_gradient_bottom_color=”rgba(1,149,51,0)” button_gradient_top_color_hover=”#0e540f” 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July 5, 2019